Sometimes, we do our eye makeup, and then when we look at the mirror, we realise our eyes seem much smaller than they were before. Or maybe you are short-sighted, and so your eyes look smaller because of your glasses. Or maybe, that day you want to emphasize your eyes, or maybe you want to try a different eye look without doing something too overwhelming, like using coloured contacts. Whatever your case is, in this article, you will learn how to make your eyes look bigger with makeup. It’s basically a whole game of optical illusions, yet you don’t need to be an artist in order to understand any of this. If you follow along, it’s actually so simple.
Here is a drawing of an eye without makeup. I left some parts in black and white purposefully so that you can understand each step properly as I show you along. I chose to keep the eye colour the same to show you that no, you don’t need coloured contacts to make your eyes look bigger. Note that I am using digital art software to draw the makeup to show you the art and the science behind each trick. Obviously, with real makeup, the result will look much better.
1. Apply a light-coloured shimmer or glitter eyeshadow on your lid.
This will help open up your eyes, and since light colours dilate, they will help your eyes look bigger and brighter. It’s also perfect if you are a shimmer lover like me, are trying to find the perfect excuse for some more sparkle on your eyelids.
2. Apply a slightly darker eyeshadow above your lighter eyeshadow.
It might seem like some kind of paradox, but it will help bring your mobile lid forward optically. Also, it will help cut the crease in a soft manner if your eyes are hooded.
3. Focus on the outer corner.
When this part is done correctly, it will bring the gaze upwards and towards the inner corner. Also, it will add a bit more depth, and it will lift your eyes as well. If you wish , you can add the inner corner eyeshadow up until a third of your lower lid for continuity, but this is optional.
4. Keep your eyebrows slightly on the thinner side.
I’m not saying to pluck/thread/shave an extra row of hair, especially if your eyebrows are already thin (I don’t ever think it’s a good idea). I am only saying to fill them in slightly less than you normally would. This helps bring the focus on the eyes and optically make the eyes seem bigger.
5. Consider the highlighter placement.
Highlighter is the product that helps create light points. To make your eyes look bigger, you want to create these light points under the brow bone, where the arch is, and in the inner corner. You want to bring your inner corner highlighter on your lids as well, like in the drawing below. Celebrity secret: the makeup artists for the British Royal Family use this trick to make sure the royal ladies’ eyes look fresh and wide awake in every single frame. It definitely works!
6. Focus on the upper lashes
Here, there are some things you will want to do.
Make sure that the eye pencil you will use in your upper waterline and the mascara are of the same colour. This will make your lashes look so much richer, and will help you save space on your lid, especially if your eyes are already small, or hooded, or droopy.
When you aventually apply eyeliner, keep the line very thin for the same reasons.
If you apply falsies, apply them only on the outer half of your upper lashes and keep them wispy and natural-looking.
Last but not least: you might want to skip the mascara on your lower lashes. This can emphasize any small lines you have under your eyes, and if your eyes are already small, this might close them instead of opening them up. Also, it interrupts the continuity between skin and sclera that we have created with the eye pencil, and we don’t want that.
7. Apply a white or butter-coloured eye pencil in your waterline.
This will create a sort of continuity with the sclera, making the eye immediately look a lot bigger. It will also help disguise a red or tired eye.
This is the final look…
Here is the before and the after. The difference is abyssal!
